Blaine Explains: Sewing Machine Needles Explained — How to Choose the Right Needle
A sewing machine needle may be one of the smallest parts of your sewing setup, but it can have a huge effect on the way your machine performs.
Skipped stitches, broken thread, puckering, damaged fabric, poor stitch formation, and even broken needles can sometimes be traced back to one simple problem: the wrong needle for the job.
After more than 20 years in the sewing industry, one thing I’ve learned is that the little details matter. Matching the correct needle to your fabric, thread, and sewing technique is one of those details that can make sewing easier and produce much better results.
I’ve also been fortunate throughout my career to learn from some terrific people in this industry.
When it comes to sewing machine needles, one of my go-to resources for many years has been my friend Rhonda Pierce. Rhonda is the Spokesperson for SCHMETZ Needles North America and Marketing Director for Euro-notions, and she has been an outstanding resource for me whenever I’ve had questions about needles, fabrics, thread, or why a particular combination works better than another.
One of the things I’ve taken away from conversations with Rhonda over the years is that choosing a needle should not be an afterthought. The needle is where the machine, thread, and fabric all come together.
That makes it worth understanding.
So let’s break it down.
Why Does the Sewing Machine Needle Matter So Much?
The needle has a difficult job.
It has to repeatedly penetrate the fabric, carry the upper thread through it, and work with the hook and bobbin system to form a stitch.
And it may do that hundreds or even thousands of times during a single project.
Different fabrics place very different demands on a needle.
Think about the difference between sewing:
- Lightweight cotton
- Stretch jersey
- Denim
- Canvas
- Silk
- Fleece
- Leather
- A quilt with several layers
Trying to use one needle for all of those materials is a little like trying to use one screwdriver for every job in the toolbox.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it creates a lot of unnecessary frustration.
Understanding Sewing Machine Needle Sizes
Most household sewing machine needles are marked with two numbers, such as:
- 70/10
- 80/12
- 90/14
- 100/16
- 110/18
These are two different sizing systems describing the same needle.
The larger number is the European size, while the smaller number is the American size.
Fortunately, you do not need to memorize the history of the sizing systems.
The important rule is:
The larger the number, the larger and heavier the needle.
So:
70/10 is relatively fine.
80/12 is a common general-purpose size.
90/14 handles somewhat heavier materials.
100/16 and 110/18 are intended for heavier jobs when appropriate.
But size is only part of the decision.
The type of needle point and construction matters too.
Universal Needles
A universal needle is the general-purpose needle many makers use for everyday sewing.
It works well with a wide variety of woven fabrics and some stable knits.
Good uses include:
- Quilting cotton
- Cotton blends
- Polyester blends
- Broadcloth
- Linen
- Many general sewing projects
An 80/12 universal needle is a useful starting point for medium-weight everyday sewing.
But "universal" does not mean "perfect for everything."
When you begin working with specialty fabrics, switching to a needle designed for that material can make a noticeable difference.
Ballpoint and Jersey Needles
Knit fabrics are constructed differently from woven fabrics.
Rather than forcing a sharp point directly through the fibers, a ballpoint or jersey needle has a more rounded point designed to move between the loops of the knit.
These needles are useful for:
- T-shirt jersey
- Interlock
- Rib knit
- Sweater knit
- Other traditional knit fabrics
If you are seeing skipped stitches or damage while sewing knit fabric with a universal needle, switching to a ballpoint or jersey needle is one of the first things I would try.
Stretch Needles
Stretch fabrics can be even more demanding.
A stretch needle is designed for fabrics with significant elasticity.
Common examples include:
- Spandex
- Lycra
- Swimwear
- Athletic wear
- Stretch velvet
- Highly elastic knit blends
Stretch materials can move away from the needle as the stitch is being formed, which may result in skipped stitches.
A stretch needle is designed to help the machine form those stitches more reliably.
Microtex or Sharp Needles
Microtex needles have a very fine, sharp point.
They are particularly useful when you need precise penetration through tightly woven or delicate materials.
Good applications include:
- Microfiber
- Batiks
- Fine cotton
- Silk
- Taffeta
- Some coated fabrics
- Precision topstitching
If you are working on detailed sewing where accuracy matters, a Microtex needle can produce a very clean stitch.
Denim or Jeans Needles
Denim is tightly woven and often becomes even more challenging when several seam layers come together.
Denim needles are designed with a strong shaft and point that can handle dense woven fabrics.
Use them for materials such as:
- Denim
- Heavy twill
- Canvas
- Workwear fabrics
- Other dense woven materials
One caution: putting in the largest needle you can find does not mean your machine can sew through anything.
When you reach a thick seam intersection, slow down and allow the machine to do the work.
A hump jumper or leveling tool can also help keep the presser foot level when crossing very thick seams.
Quilting Needles
Quilting needles are designed to penetrate multiple layers cleanly.
They are useful for:
- Quilt piecing
- Machine quilting
- Patchwork
- Layered projects
Depending on the fabric, batting, thread, and number of layers, quilting needles are available in several sizes.
The important thing is to match the needle to the complete project—not just the top piece of fabric.
Embroidery Needles
Machine embroidery can put an enormous number of stitches into a relatively small area.
Embroidery needles are designed to accommodate embroidery thread and the demands created by decorative stitching.
They typically have features intended to help reduce friction and thread damage.
They are useful for:
- Machine embroidery
- Monograms
- Decorative designs
- Dense stitched designs
- Appliqué embroidery
The correct embroidery needle can depend on:
- Fabric
- Stabilizer
- Thread
- Design density
- Stitch count
That is another reason I always recommend testing before embroidering an expensive or one-of-a-kind item.
Topstitching Needles
Topstitching needles have a larger eye and are designed to accommodate heavier decorative threads more easily.
They are useful for:
- Decorative seams
- Denim topstitching
- Bag making
- Visible garment stitching
- Heavier thread accents
If heavier thread is shredding or struggling to pass through the needle eye, a topstitching needle may solve the problem.
Metallic Needles
Metallic thread can be beautiful, but it can also be challenging.
A metallic needle is designed with an eye that helps reduce friction on delicate metallic thread as it passes through the needle.
If you are using specialty metallic thread and experiencing shredding or repeated breaks, do not automatically blame the thread or the machine.
Check the needle first.
Leather Needles
Leather needles are different from ordinary fabric needles because they are designed to penetrate leather and similar nonwoven materials.
They may be appropriate for:
- Genuine leather
- Certain suede projects
- Some nonwoven materials
Because the point can cut the material, you generally do not want to use a leather needle on standard woven or knit fabric.
And remember:
Every hole you make in leather is permanent.
Test first.
Twin Needles
Twin needles allow a sewing machine to sew two parallel lines of stitching at the same time.
They can be useful for:
- Decorative stitching
- Knit hems
- Garment construction
- Heirloom techniques
- Parallel topstitching
But before using a twin needle, make sure your sewing machine is designed to accommodate it and that the selected stitch width will not cause the needle to strike the presser foot or needle plate.
Consult your machine manual before using specialty needle setups.
Match the Needle to the Fabric
Here is a simple starting guide.
| Fabric or Project | Needle Type to Consider |
|---|---|
| Quilting cotton | Universal or Quilting |
| Lightweight woven fabric | Universal or Microtex |
| Jersey knit | Jersey/Ballpoint |
| Highly stretchy fabric | Stretch |
| Denim | Jeans/Denim |
| Canvas | Denim or appropriate heavy-duty needle |
| Machine embroidery | Embroidery |
| Decorative heavy thread | Topstitch |
| Metallic thread | Metallic |
| Leather | Leather |
| Quilting layers | Quilting |
These are starting points, not absolute rules.
Thread weight, fabric construction, number of layers, stitch type, and your particular machine can all affect the final choice.
Match the Needle Size to the Fabric Weight
Once you have selected the correct needle type, choose the size.
A practical starting point is:
70/10
For lightweight fabrics.
80/12
For light- to medium-weight fabrics and many everyday projects.
90/14
For medium-weight and somewhat heavier fabrics.
100/16
For heavier fabrics and heavier thread when appropriate.
110/18
For very heavy materials where the machine, thread, and application call for it.
Again, bigger is not automatically better.
A needle that is too large can leave unnecessarily large holes or damage delicate fabric.
A needle that is too small may flex, break, skip stitches, or shred heavier thread.
Thread Matters Too
Fabric is only part of needle selection.
The thread must pass smoothly through the eye of the needle.
Heavy thread generally requires a needle with an eye large enough to accommodate it.
Very fine thread may work better with a smaller needle that does not leave oversized holes in the fabric.
If thread is repeatedly:
- Shredding
- Fraying
- Breaking near the needle
- Producing inconsistent stitches
check whether the needle and thread are properly matched before changing every setting on your sewing machine.
How Often Should You Change a Sewing Machine Needle?
This is one of the most common questions makers ask.
There is no magical timer built into the needle.
The important thing to remember is that needles are consumable items.
They do not last forever.
Even if a needle is not visibly broken, repeated contact with fabric gradually wears the point.
Consider changing your needle:
- At the beginning of an important project
- After several hours of sewing
- After sewing very dense or abrasive material
- After hitting a pin
- If the needle becomes bent
- If you begin hearing a popping sound as the needle enters the fabric
- If stitch quality unexpectedly changes
- If thread begins breaking or shredding for no obvious reason
Needles are inexpensive compared with ruined fabric, broken thread, or a trip to the repair shop.
That Popping Sound Is Trying to Tell You Something
Experienced makers often recognize the sound of a worn needle before they see a stitch problem.
A good needle should pass through the material relatively cleanly.
If you begin hearing the needle punching or popping through the fabric, particularly on a project that was sewing well before, it may be time for a new needle.
Do not wait until the needle actually breaks.
Never Sew Over Pins
It can be tempting to keep sewing and hope the needle slips past the pin.
Don't.
If the sewing machine needle strikes a pin, several things can happen:
- The needle can break
- The pin can break
- The needle can bend
- The broken needle can fly outward
- The needle plate can be damaged
- The hook area can be damaged
- Machine timing can potentially be affected
Remove pins before they reach the presser foot.
That extra second is worth it.
Install the Needle Correctly
A brand-new needle will not solve the problem if it is installed incorrectly.
When replacing a needle:
- Turn off the machine if appropriate.
- Raise the needle to its highest position.
- Loosen the needle clamp.
- Remove the old needle.
- Insert the new needle in the correct orientation.
- Push it fully into position.
- Tighten the needle clamp securely.
The orientation can vary depending on the machine, so refer to your owner's manual.
If the needle is not inserted completely or is facing the wrong direction, the machine may skip stitches or fail to form them at all.
Troubleshooting? Start With a New Needle
This is one of the simplest habits I recommend.
If your machine suddenly begins:
- Skipping stitches
- Breaking thread
- Shredding thread
- Puckering unexpectedly
- Making unusual sounds
- Forming poor stitches
before you start adjusting everything on the machine, put in a new needle of the correct type and size.
Then rethread the machine.
You would be surprised how many apparent "machine problems" disappear after those two steps.
Keep Several Needle Types in Your Sewing Room
You do not need every needle ever manufactured.
A practical assortment for many makers might include:
- Universal 70/10
- Universal 80/12
- Universal 90/14
- Jersey/Ballpoint
- Stretch
- Microtex
- Denim
- Quilting
- Embroidery
- Topstitch
Then add specialty needles based on what you actually make.
If you never sew leather, you probably do not need a drawer full of leather needles.
Buy tools for the work you do.
Keep Your Needles Organized
Once a needle comes out of its original package, it can be difficult to remember exactly what it is.
That becomes a problem when several types look almost identical.
Consider:
- Keeping new needles in their original packages
- Using a needle organizer
- Labeling partially used needles
- Separating new and used needles
- Discarding damaged needles safely
Organization may seem like a small thing, but it keeps you from accidentally using the wrong needle on an important project.
The Needle Is Small, but Its Job Is Huge
It is easy to spend thousands of dollars on a sewing, quilting, or embroidery machine and then overlook a part that costs only a few dollars.
But the needle is the part that actually meets the fabric.
The right needle can help produce:
- Cleaner stitches
- Fewer thread breaks
- Less fabric damage
- Better embroidery
- More accurate seams
- A smoother sewing experience
The wrong needle can make a perfectly good machine look like it has a problem.
Throughout my career, I’ve learned that some of the most valuable sewing knowledge comes from people who specialize deeply in one area of the industry.
Rhonda Pierce has been one of those people for me.
Rhonda has been a friend and a great resource for many years, and I appreciate the knowledge she has shared with me in her roles as Spokesperson for SCHMETZ Needles North America and Marketing Director for Euro-notions.
That is part of what I want Blaine Explains to be about.
I’ve spent more than 20 years working with manufacturers, educators, technicians, designers, dealers, and makers. I’ve learned something from nearly everyone I’ve had the opportunity to work with.
I want to pass those lessons along.
Because understanding why you should use a particular needle is much more valuable than simply memorizing a chart.
Once you understand the relationship between the needle, fabric, thread, stitch, and machine, choosing the right needle becomes much easier.
And your sewing gets better because of it.
— Blaine Austin
Sew Nation USA